I was supremely frustrated trying to figure out how to change the primary email address on my Google Account in December 2011.  It was difficult but not insurmountable completing this task before I signed up for Google+ and now it seems to be impossible finding the links/pages/buttons to complete this remedial task.

I am ashamed to admit that I spent more than an hour trying to figure this out but thrilled to think I may be able to save a few people that hour+ (no pun intended).  These directions seem simple, and they are, but they can be a lifesaver if trying to change the primary email address for your google account.

1. Visit  https://www.google.com/accounts/Login and log in with your google account username and pw
   - There are numerous links/urls/ways to log into your google account settings, but the link above is the only one I found that works to get to the page to change your primary email address
2. At the bottom of the page, click Visit the previous version of the Google accounts screen »
3. You will find Change Email at the very top of this page.